Tag Along with Barclay
on Texas Photography Trip #94

(More appropriately - Who or what is Barclay?)

Texas Escapes thought it might be of interest to readers to become virtual passengers with me on one of my dedicated photography trips to Texas. My South Texas Loop Trip taken June 8 - 12 was my 94th such trip. This trip will be as much a challenge for me to put into words as it will be for you to come along for the ride. Fortunately, having just returned from South Texas, the details are still very fresh in my mind.

After arriving in Carlsbad, final preparations had to be made. My pickup, Old Blue, was in pretty good shape, considering. Years ago I quit worrying about some of the warning lights that continually flashed on the instrument panel. Her tires still had a lot of miles on them, but her air conditioner needed a re-charge. Her driver seat padding had long ago given out so that an extra cushion was always needed while driving. Packing an extra spare tire, spare gas, an extra tire jack, battery cables, a tow chain, and my trusty bed roll, just in case I broke down out in the country somewhere, it was all set to go. Don't tell anyone, but I also carry the truck title with me just in case I have to abandon it in some small Texas town.

Here is how the trip was lining out. Sunrise this time of year was about 6:30 am. Sunset was about 8:30 pm. That made for more than 14 hours of daylight for taking pictures. One thing I learned the hard way: Don't be in oil field territory at night without a room reservation. Twice I have used my sleeping bag because I didn't plan ahead. My reservation for Sunday night was at a “seen better days” motel in Uvalde, Tuesday night would be in another of the same genre in Corpus Christi, Wednesday night in one of my favorite out of the way Texas motels, the Wharton Tee Pee Motel, and Thursday night in another, shall we say, “rustic” motel in Mason.


In making appointments like I do, there is a fine line between calling too often, thus giving the land owner, the guide, or a contact person another opportunity to back out, and not keeping them informed as to changes in plan, arrival time, or maybe others who might want to see the marker with me. A few days before leaving Oregon, I called the lady in Mertzon to confirm everything was still set to see the three markers on Thursday, June 12. Two of them were set for sure. The third land owner might need to be called to reaffirm our visit. We debated on who should make the call. I got the nod. Very soon after he answered the phone, I could tell I was in trouble. I had either spoken with someone else earlier or he had simply forgotten my call from a month ago. Either way, his schedule was such that the visit was off. Now I was down to seven markers.

Leaving Carlsbad Sunday afternoon, I had plenty of time to go a little out of my way to see a few ghost towns north of Del Rio and still get to Uvalde just before dark. Sure enough, the La Salle land owner quit answering my calls or returning my messages. Now it was down to six markers. That was just as well as Monday was turning out to be a long day. The visit to the Zapata County marker for Poblacion de Dolores, would take several hours. After that, I wanted to have time to follow US Highway 83 down the Rio Grande, all the way over to Harlingen, and then drive north back up to my room in Corpus Christi Monday night.

He would first accompany us to two Centennials in downtown Laredo. From there we planned to pick up the key to the property to see the Poblacion marker located just south of the Zapata County line. Originally, the land owner said he would only provide us with access and directions to the marker. Because the marker is located right on the Rio Grande, it is a very convenient place for smugglers to bring in drugs. Thankfully, almost at the last minute, the land owner decided to go with us. Let me add here that he related to me that the property with the marker is a part of the famous Jose Vasquez Borrego Spanish Land Grant from the mid-1750's of which his wife is a ninth generation heir.

When Sarah and I first met the Professor outside his home in Laredo, he mentioned that his eyes were a little sore and were getting sensitive to the light. He had been working with some house plants the night before and must have gotten some of the fluid from one of the plants in his eyes. Not thinking more about it, he drove us to both of the Laredo markers. After seeing the markers, we met up with the land owner. It was time to head south to the Polablion de Dolores marker. As my plans were to continue on south after seeing that marker, we decided to take three vehicles; I drove alone, the land owner had his SUV while Sarah rode with the Professor in his Jeep.


As it had been many years since anyone had visited the marker, the padlocks weren't very cooperative about opening up. Finally, after passing through the last gate and only taking one wrong turn when the trail all but disappeared, we were nearing the river. Earlier I mentioned flashing instrument panel lights. One of the lights that sometimes flash is the one that says, “Check 4 Wheel Drive.” I sure didn't want that one to come on now as the ruts were getting somewhat challenging. Also, the mesquite was getting pretty thick so I persuaded the land owner to ride in my old truck as a few more scratches on Old Blue wouldn't hurt anything. Then in front of us, just above the rise was the now familiar shape of a gray granite slab. I can't explain the feeling, but every time I see a new marker, it's like making a new friend.

Of all the planning I had done to see this marker, I had its location off by more than two miles. Even the Texas Historical Commission lists the marker in adjacent Webb County, not Zapata County. This is another example of how little is known about these monuments that were placed all over the state nearly 80 years ago.

Thankfully, the terrain surrounding the marker was pretty open so we felt fairly safe. While staying alert, we were able see the marker itself as well as survey and photograph the rock ruins of the old Dolores mission and its torreon, or circular enclosure used for protection against attack. The inscription on the marker commemorated the founding of Poblacion de Dolores in 1750. It was the first Spanish settlement north of the Rio Grande.

Not wanting to spend any more time there than necessary, we were ready to depart. As I was concentrating on the marker and its surroundings, I didn't realize the Professor was having so much trouble with his eyes. He could hardly open them due to the extreme pain and their sensitivity to the bright sunlight. Being unable to do anything but shield his eyes, he was in no shape to drive back to Laredo. Even in his pain, he thoroughly quizzed Sarah about her ability to drive his Jeep in this kind of terrain. She assured him that she had grown up on a cattle ranch and was used to pulling trailers, as long as she didn't have to back one.

We were soon on our way back to civilization. I drove the land owner back to his vehicle and we all exited the property. Believe me, it was such a real relief to be back on a paved highway. Sarah safely delivered our professor friend back to Laredo where he could seek immediate medical attention, and I was on my way to the next marker. The next day I called to see how he was doing. Having not quite fully recovered, he told me what caused all his misery. Here is a warning for anyone reading: the house plant he was working with is commonly called pencil cactus.

After doing a little checking on the pencil cactus, I found that the plant secretes a sap that acts similar to lye if it gets into your eye. In severe cases, this can cause blindness. A potted pencil cactus makes a nice house plant and seems to be popular as they are common in nurseries. The Professor joked that he had hiked to this site 45 years ago and didn't notice the marker. This time he couldn't open his eyes enough to see the it. He has now been there twice and still hasn't seen the 1936 Polablion de Dolores Centennial marker.

Back on the highway, it was a little after noon on Monday. My trip was really just beginning. Stay tuned for the next episode of what was over the next hill.



© Barclay Gibson
August 1, 2014 Column

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