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Gonzales:
The Trip(Not
the Movie, the Book, or the Video)
Gonzales,
Texas
by John Troesser |
| | The
Gonzales Chamber of Commerce
asks the question: NOW
will you visit Gonzales? Performers
in the Dailey Brother's Circus that used to "Winter" in Gonzales
Photo
Courtesy of Gonzales County Records Center |
Gonzales
is a spacious town in a spacious county in a spacious state. If you are the least
agoraphobic, stay home or go to Eureka Springs, Arkansas. The layout of Gonzales
is in the form of a cross made up by its public squares and municipal property.
The entire downtown section goes back to the original Mexican survey of 1832.
The
first stop would be to the Chamber of Commerce where they will furnish
you with detailed brochures that will insure you don't miss a thing. The Chamber
is in the Old Jail,
which is next to the Courthouse
and across the street from the Fire Station. If you can't find the Courthouse,
ask someone, but be prepared to suffer ridicule. The Courthouse just underwent
a 3.5 million restoration and shines like a new penny.
Gonzales
Hotels >
Book Your Hotel Here & Save |
Courtesy
Ron George, AFAPG | The
weather vane atop the Fire Station can now serve as a guide to the
brand-new, spacious and handicapped accessible public restrooms just below. The
vane was once owned by Gonzales County "Cattle Baron" R.A. Houston,
who had it made to order in St. Louis and installed on top of his house. Notice
the ginko trees just to the left of the restroom doors. This tree with
its unique leaf was once food for vegetarian dinosaurs (who in turn were food
for carnivorous dinosaurs). The trees have a unique bark as well. |
| | Gonzales
scenes
Courtesy
Rose Epps, AFAPG |
(Museum,
driving tours, cemeteries, historic home tours, and Christmas Lights).
The jail itself is a museum and has a collection of homemade weapons
second only to Huntsville.
Gonzales
Hotels >
Book Your Hotel Here & Save |
| | Gonzales
courthouse tower
Courtesy
Ron George, AFAPG |
| | Gonzales
Jail interior
Courtesy
Kathy van Torne, AFAPG |
| History in a Pecan Shell
- The tale of John Wesley Hardin
If you'd rather not think
about one of these nasty items being thrust into your ear, look around and you'll
see the decree allowing John Wesley Hardin to practice law in Gonzales.
JWH had broken out of this jail's predecessor
when he was young and restless. (The original arrested adolescent.) His practice
came about after a 17-year stint in Huntsville where he became unique among his
peers by being the first and only gunman to write his autobiography and study
law. Also in this room is a list of
offenses Gonzalans found offensive in the old days. These included disposing of
mortgage papers, keeping a bawdyhouse, leaving dead horse in road, leaving an
open gate, train wrecking and theft of a fish. This is how John Wesley's motto
became: "So many rules, so little time!"
Evidently all his practicing was for
naught, for he never got good at it and left for El
Paso where he was eventually shot. We bring this up only because
of a remark the undertaker made about the recently deceased
JWH. Asked about the condition his condition was in, the undertaker
replied: "Except for being dead, he looks pretty good."
We viewed his death photo at the Gonzales Co. archives, and indeed,
this is the case.
Gonzales
Hotels >
Book Your Hotel Here & Save
|
 | Old
postcard |  | Old
postcard | | |
 | Courtesy
Susan Roads
AFAPG |  | Courtesy
Pat Brown
AFAPG | |
|
The
Gonzales Driving TourThe
Driving Tour begins at the jail and leads you past 82 points of interest,
bringing you back to the point of departure.
Beside the brochure, there
are signs along the route. This tour includes 50 houses, assorted buildings, churches
and memorials. The tour also includes information on the architects and architecture,
houses that are thought to be haunted, and sometimes the place of origin. Like
Cuero, many of the houses were shipped overland from Indianola, after it's devastating
hurricanes. Clara's Deli sells a pamphlet on the hauntings around Gonzales.
You'll be relieved but not surprised to learn they are all benign spirits.
While
we are on the subject: Gonzales has five cemeteries that we know of. The
oldest and most scenic is on College Street just North of the RR Tracks and is
a virtual forest of crepe myrtles. See how the vegetation in this neighborhood
blends yards together and softens the harshness that is found in so many old (and
new) neighborhoods. All other cemeteries and points of interest can be found on
the city map found inside the Visitor's and Newcomer's Guide, published
by the Chamber and the Gonzales
Inquirer.
Gonzales
Hotels >
Book Your Hotel Here & Save |
| In addition to the regular driving
tour, there is a Holiday Historic Homes Tour on the first weekend of December.
This is what you might call an abbreviated tour, listing the jewels in the crown
and a good map and Calendar of Events as well. This gives you a chance to see
the interiors. |
 | |  | Interiors
Courtesy
Pat Brown AFAPG | |
By the way, for those who
like Christmas lights, the entire downtown section of
Gonzales is lighted for the month of December. We've
been told it surpasses the display in Marshall. Pick up the new
Visitor's and Newcomer's Guide.
Gonzales
Hotels >
Book Your Hotel Here & Save |
Courtesy
of Gonzales County Records Center |
The Courthouse Curse Many
years ago, while a condemned prisoner counted his last hours, he announced that
from the time of his death, the clock faces would never show the same time. Somehow
this was to prove his innocence (having the rope break during the hanging would've
been more effective). Being punctual people, the citizens of Gonzales went to
great lengths to keep the faces in synchronization. Circle the Courthouse for
yourself, but be careful and observe all traffic signals and signs.
TE |
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